I stood naked in a stark, tiled room, bracing  myself  for what was to come.  Then the fire-hose blast hit me full force, stinging my bare skin and pushing me against the wall. 

 

Wielding the powerful nozzle was not a Turkish prison guard, not a dastardly character from some travel nightmare.  No.  It was a petite, young, French beauty, who nonetheless seemed fixated on interrogating my thighs until they submitted and surrendered several inches of cellulite.

 

I had given myself over to an unusual spa-in-a-vineyard near Bordeaux, France, called Les Sources de Caudalie. 

 

As the daughter of a woman whose beauty regimen consists merely of soap, this was a bold move.  But while the years marched on, I became more and more intrigued by the French beauty mystique.  In a country whose national health plan actually covers some types of spa visits, they must be onto something, right?

 

Caudalie pioneered the concept of “Vinotherapie,” which uses extracts from grapes, seeds, vines and wine to work beauty magic.  Their particular focus is on polyphenols, powerful anti-oxidants found in grape seeds.  The company claims, when stabilized, they can protect the skin against evil free radicals blamed for aging.  Recent research also points to polyphenols as the cholesterol-reducing element in red wine, so we had a good excuse for healthful pampering, both inside and out.

 

My husband, Paul, and I signed on for the surprisingly reasonable winter “Relaxation Package”:  four spa treatments per day, three nights hotel and two meals a day at an on-site restaurant, as well as a tour and tasting at the winery - all for $595 per person.  Plus, since one can never really get enough relaxation, we added a couple of à la carte spa treatments.

 

Due to a cancelled flight, we were seven hours late in arriving at the spa complex, located 15 minutes from the heart of Bordeaux on the grounds of the Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte winery.  But not to worry.  Although it was a busy Saturday, our treatments were re-jiggered and the restaurant was cajoled into feeding my starving husband, even though it had officially closed for the afternoon.

 

As the travel trauma receded, Paul checked in for a “California” massage ($69.56 for a one-hour treatment), while I explored the Caudalie complex.  Composed of several buildings – some renovations and some new construction – the inn’s style is sophisticated country.  Mid-priced rooms are named for wine lovers, with Thomas Jefferson even getting a nod.  A cabin accommodation stands alone on stilts, overhanging a small lake.

 

Our spacious standard hotel room on the second floor had French doors (bien sûr!) opening onto a balcony that overlooked the lake, embraced by trees.  A pair of swans floated serenely, as if they were poster children for the Relaxation Package.  Vineyard rows marched neatly in every direction, and chilly gray clouds hugged the rolling landscape.

 

Being a fan of amenities, I cased the bathroom - which was enormous - with double sinks, tub and separate shower stall, all appointed in marble.  The towels were gigantic and fluffy, and intoxicating aromas effused from the house-brand shampoos, lotions and potions left for us to sample. 

 

In fact, our Caudalie visit was defined by scents.  It seemed as if every wing of the 49-room auberge exuded a delicious aroma, from the hint of a Moroccan spice souk, to lavender, to ripe grapes.  And every treatment, aside from the euphemistically named “jet shower” (a.k.a., the fire hose), had a seductive bouquet all its own. 

 

When Paul drifted out of his massage session in a state best described as “pleasure zombie,” I knew we were in for a good experience.  Now it was my turn.

 

Fabienne the massage therapist looks like she was sent by central casting when somebody ordered up a French aunt – but I have never had a massage that even comes close to the cosmic experience she delivered – more of a gentle, caring caress than the deeper American-style massage.  “It was wonderful,” I stammered in my rusty French.  “For me, too,” she replied.

 

We quickly fell into a routine, drifting along with our spa schedule cards, which were discretely slipped under our door each morning.

 

In between treatments, guests can relax in a lounge area (amusingly translated into English as the “rest room” in spa literature), gaze out on the vineyards, float in a large indoor hydro-massage pool, take a sauna or soak in the outdoor hot tub.  An outdoor swimming pool is also an option in the summertime. 

 

The environment is simple, clean, almost Zen-like.  A small moat lined in smooth, black river stones surrounds the shimmering glass-tiled hammam (sauna).  Ancient, twisted trunks of olive trees enhance the spare décor.  Natural wood frames large banks of floor-to ceiling windows.  Hot tea with extract of red grape vines is available to sooth from the inside out. 

Spa treatments are divided into “wet” (humide in French), which comprised our package, and dry (sec) massages of various types, including some with essential oils or grape seeds (pepins).  Wet treatments are $42.60, while dry treatments range from $42.60 to $95.65.  The Journée Découverte (Day of Discovery), a package of four wet treatments, is an excellent value at $113.04.  A full range of facial and salon treatments is offered as well. 

 

The most ethereal wet treatment was the 30-minute Massage Enivrant, where I lay with four shower heads gently raining warm mineral water along my body as a massage therapist rubbed grape seed extract and intoxicating essential oils into my skin.

 

For my husband, the ultimate bath treatment was the Bain Barrique.  In a private room, your own personal hot tub is filled with warm water from the 1,480-foot deep Caudalie source, then grape extract and essential oils are poured in, according to whether you want a bath that’s relaxing, detoxifying or toning. You’re left to bubble in this Bordeaux-colored mixture, while gazing out on the fields that produced it. 

 

Other wet treatments in our package included the infamous jet shower (Douche au Jet), which was actually invigorating, leaving my skin surprisingly soft and un-pruney; a session in a special bathtub programmed to deliver hydro-massage from a changing series of underwater jets, with water enhanced by grapevine extracts and essential oils (Bain à la Vigne Rouge); and warm wraps with honey and wine yeast (Enveloppement Miel et Vin) or clay and essential oils (Enveloppement Merlot). 

 

Because Caudalie is a spa, you can pre-order special 500-calorie meals.  But this is France, after all, and in the restaurant I only saw one mother-daughter pair who seemed to have taken that route.  Also, during the fall grape crush, if you really want to go all-out it’s possible to partake of a purification program that calls for eating only grapes.

 

We opted for the regular fare at La Table du Lavoir, Caudalie’s casual restaurant with a prix fixe menu (either lunch or dinner was included with our package).  The restaurant’s name signifies its history as an ancient laundry, with menus presented on paddles like those used by washerwomen.  Though the menu choice is limited, there are also daily specials, some of which require a supplement.

 

Appetizers ranged from a salad with smoked trout to a cold shellfish platter endowed with a pair of oysters and the most amazing assortment of snails I have ever seen – from petite to gigantic - with a garlicky aioli dipping sauce.  Our favorite main course was tender sliced leg of lamb, and for dessert, sensational warm chocolate cake with a luscious liquid center.  My kind of spa food. 

 

Because Caudalie is also in the heart of a vineyard, guests can sample the estate reds and other legendary Bordeaux of the region.  We were lucky enough to dine when they were pouring 1995 Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte by the glass.  Chances are, some of your fellow diners will even be from the wine business, evidenced by farmers’ tans and tables topped with multiple decanters of premiers crus liberated from their bottles to “breathe.”

 

There is also a higher-end, more formal restaurant, which we tried one night.  La Grand’Vigne has earned a Michelin star, and we enjoyed the $52.17 tasting menu, though the optional wines by the glass that accompanied each course were a bit young and disappointing.

 

Standout dishes were venison in an intense reduction of wild mushrooms, and the cheese course, a round of chevre marinated in olive oil, peppercorns and herbs.

 

It’s possible to venture beyond the Caudalie cocoon, to sample regional restaurants, go wine tasting or visit tourist magnets, like the village of Saint Emilion.  But for us, blissful relaxation usually won out over sightseeing.

 

Although Caudalie welcomes American guests, we found that few people spoke fluent English.  However, it was easy to communicate with the spa therapists, who knew essential words in English or would demonstrate how we should position ourselves for a treatment.  Their attitude toward the international clientele was attentive and accommodating.

 

My final treatment was a facial (Grand Soin du Visage Caudalie, $69.56), what I’d always believed to be the holy grail of French women.  The facial itself was not all that different from ones I’d experienced back in the US, with fewer extractions but a heavenly face and neck massage.  All the while, the perfect skin of Sylvie, my therapist, hovered over me like a glowing ad for Caudalie’s products.

 

I told Sylvie that my skin was oily in some places and dry in others.  “Non,” she said, “your skin isn’t dry - it’s dehydrated.”  In fact, she explained that my skin was creating extra oil in the misguided attempt to compensate for being dehydrated. 

 

As I wrapped my mind around this concept, Sylvie prescribed a series of the products she had been using for my facial: a spray-on toner (eau de beauté visage), which the bottle states is based on the “beauty elixir” of 17^th-century Queen Isabelle of Hungary; Vinolift, a pricey “serum” packed with grape seed anti-oxidants; C80, a light, moisturizing “rejuvenating” lotion; creamy makeup remover; an exfoliating scrub; eye moisturizer; and two tiny bottles of essential oils.

 

I had never fallen for this sales pitch back home, but the products were clean-smelling – subtle, fresh, “viney,” as Paul remarked – felt good, and were fairly reasonably priced compared to department store beauty products in the U.S.  Sylvie insisted vociferously that I also buy the “grape water” (eau de raisin), a spray that drenches the face with moisture and polyphenols. “I even spray it on my children,” she confided.

 

I drifted out to the Caudalie sales area with my recommended regimen, and selected most of the products on the list.  Sylvie dumped a handful of additional samples into the bag. 

 

Had I finally captured a piece of the French beauty secret?  Only time and wrinkles will tell.

 

Les Sources de Caudalie: Chemin de Smith Haut Lafitte, Martillac 33650, Bordeaux,, France. Phone: 011.33.(0)5.57.83.83.83; fax: 011.33.(0)5.57.83.83.84; www.sources-caudalie.com (English-language version available). Room rates range from $152.17 to $369.56, however hotel/spa packages are available (particularly in low season) that offer considerable discounts. 

 

Flights:  Direct flights to Bordeaux are available from Paris and other French cities.

 

Local Transportation:  Cab service is available from the city of Bordeaux and its airport.  The airport is also served by major car rental agencies.  A rental car is suggested if you intend to venture beyond the spa complex.

 

Products:  Caudalie skin care products are available at department stores and drug stores throughout France, and in the U.S. at Sephora and Neiman Marcus (U.S. prices are considerably higher).

 

© 2002 Gayle Keck

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